National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne, Australia has set a new world record for House of Chanel fashion by paying €277,200 ($428,427.35 Australian Dollars) for an extremely rare evening coat designed by Karl Lagerfeld.
The exquisite ‘Coromandel Coat’ was one of the highlights from the Autumn – Winter 1996 collection of Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and featured in Christies ‘Classic Week in Paris’ auction in November 2022.
The ‘Coromandel Coat’ from the Chanel Coromandel series is a masterpiece of embroidery by Maison Lesage (House of Lesage) for Chanel and Lagerfeld.
The ‘Coromandel Coat’ in silk crepe and red organza, and dotted with sequins, beads and tubes forming patterns, and then enhanced with gold leaf, sometimes heated.
The coat was personally embroidered by François Lesage. Not less than a hundred and thirty-five hours of production and eight hundred hours of work were necessary to produce the coat.
Four evening coats, two in red and two in black, were made for House of Chanel’s Autumn – Winter 1996 collection, this one modelled by Kate Moss.
The Coromandel coat designed by Lagerfeld was a luxurious and highly detailed piece. It featured intricate embroidery, richly textured fabrics, and an opulent color palette. The designs on the coat were reminiscent of the motifs and patterns often found on Coromandel screens. Lagerfeld’s ability to blend high fashion with art and cultural influences was on full display in this collection.
The Coromandel coat was a testament to Lagerfeld’s creative vision and his talent for taking inspiration from various sources to create unique and innovative fashion pieces. It was well-received in the fashion world and is an example of how Lagerfeld’s work often pushed the boundaries of what could be achieved in the realm of high fashion. His ability to draw inspiration from art and history and translate it into contemporary fashion made him a celebrated and iconic figure in the industry.
Karl Lagerfeld, who had just arrived to work at Chanel in France, began a professional relationship with the master embroider François Lesage in 1983. Coco Chanel had passed on a decade earlier.
Coromandel screens
Lagerfeld and Lesage were inspired by Gabrielle Coco Chanel’s Coromandel panels and stay true to their colors and antique gold patina. She had up to 32 of them, there were eight in her apartment at 31 rue Cambon in Paris. Coromandel is a type of Chinese lacquerware.
“I’ve loved Chinese screens since I was eighteen years old…I nearly fainted with joy when, entering a Chinese shop, I saw a Coromandel for the first time … Screens were the first thing I bought …”
Coco Chanel, quoted in “Chanel Solitaire” by Claude Delay – Gallimard – 1983
Coromandel screens are decorative folding screens that have their origins in China. Chanel had a particular fondness for these screens and incorporated them into her personal and professional spaces.
Chanel placed Coromandel screens as room dividers and featured intricate and beautiful designs. The Coromandel screens in her apartment reflected her taste for oriental aesthetics and added a touch of luxury to her living space.
These screens are typically made of wood or lacquered material and are elaborately decorated with intricate designs, scenes, and patterns. They often have a black lacquer background and are painted or inlaid with materials like mother of pearl, ivory, or various types of woods to create visually stunning works of art.
Chanel’s use of Coromandel screens in her personal space showcases her commitment to creating an atmosphere of timeless elegance and sophistication, which was also reflected in her fashion designs. Her attention to detail and the use of these screens as decorative elements are just one example of her unique approach to design and style.
House of Lesage
House of Lesage is globally known in the art of embroidery in Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. They worked for the largest fashion and haute couture houses in the world, and are now part of House of Chanel through the company’s subsidiary, Paraffection
“Embroidery is to haute couture what fireworks are to Bastille Day”
François Lesage
Founded in 1924 by Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage, the House of Lesage quickly gained recognition for its exceptional craftsmanship and artistic embroidery work. It has been responsible for creating some of the most iconic and intricate embroidery pieces in the history of haute couture. Over the years, Lesage has collaborated with numerous top fashion houses and designers, including Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Balenciaga, and many others.
One of the most notable collaborations is between the House of Lesage and Coco Chanel. The partnership began in the 1950s when Coco Chanel enlisted Lesage to create intricate embroidery for her couture collections. This collaboration continued, and the House of Lesage played a significant role in bringing Chanel’s designs to life, adding a level of luxury and artistry to her creations.
The embroidery produced by the House of Lesage is often highly customized and can include a wide range of materials, such as beads, sequins, pearls, crystals, and various threads, to create unique and exquisite designs. Each piece is typically handcrafted by skilled artisans, making it a true work of art.
The House of Lesage is known for its dedication to preserving and passing down traditional embroidery techniques and for constantly pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved with needle and thread in the world of high fashion. Today, it continues to be a prominent name in the world of couture embroidery, ensuring that this intricate art form remains a vital part of the fashion industry.
Karl Lagerfeld
Karl Lagerfeld (10 September 1933 – 19 February 2019) was a German fashion designer, creative director, artist and photographer.
Lagerfeld is best known for his role as the creative director of Chanel, one of the most prestigious and iconic fashion houses in the world. He held this position for over three decades, from 1983 until his passing in 2019. Under his leadership, Chanel continued to thrive and innovate, maintaining its status as a leading luxury brand.
Karl Lagerfeld was instantly recognizable by his distinctive personal style, which typically included high-collared shirts, fingerless gloves, sunglasses, and his signature white ponytail. His iconic look made him a fashion icon in his own right.
“It is very moving to see this unique piece, the result of a privileged and historic collaboration between the Lesage and Chanel houses, arouse such enthusiasm. Seeing this piece, a symbol of Maison Lesage’s know-how and excellence, enter the collections of a major international museum, touches me deeply. The story is really beautiful.”
Hubert Barrère, Maison Lesage Artistic Director
The National Gallery of Victoria currently have 71 pieces by Karl Lagerfeld
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