The ultimate status symbol is carrying a hand bag made from the skin of an enemy.
The most prized crocodile leather used by Hermès is the Porosus variety, which is sourced from Australia. Hermès Crocodile Porosus is known for its unique feature: each scale possesses distinct pores at the center, often resembling small dots, and it is this distinctive characteristic that gives the leather its name.
Hermès owns and operates its own crocodile farms to ensure a consistent and high-quality supply of crocodile skins for the production of their exclusive accessories, such as the iconic Hermès Birkin bag.
A massive new Hermés crocodile farm in Australia’s Northern Territory will hold 50,000 crocodiles, which has earned the wrath of animal rights activists, prompting the Australian government to review their industry code of conduct, (see below)
“It can take three to four crocodiles to make one of our bags so we are now breeding our own crocodiles on our own farms, mainly in Australia,” Patrick Thomas, CEO of Hermés told the Reuters Global Luxury Summit in Paris in 2009.
By having direct control over the sourcing and treatment of the crocodile skins, Hermès can maintain strict quality standards in the production of their luxury products. This approach allows the company to have greater oversight and control over the entire process, from the care of the animals to the final product.
Jane Birkin and the Hermés Croc
Jane Birkin, the namesake of the Hermès Birkin bag, expressed her concerns about the inhumane treatment of crocodiles in the production of the bags after media reports and disturbing undercover footage ignited demands for an immediate cessation of crocodile farming in Australia.
Jane Birkin wrote to Hermès asking them to remove her name from the bag if the practices of sourcing crocodile skins were found to be inhumane.
Hermès responded by stating their commitment to ethical practices and animal welfare, and they began discussions with Birkin to address her concerns.
While the incident did not lead to Birkin’s name being removed from the bag, it did contribute to increased awareness and discussions about ethical and sustainable practices in the exotic leather industry and prompted discussions about the treatment of animals in luxury fashion.
This shows the power of celebrity influence, not only in selling high-end fashion goods, but also in raising environmental and ethical awareness.
“Having been alerted to the cruel practices reserved for crocodiles during their slaughter to make Hermès handbags carrying my name … I have asked Hermès to debaptise the Birkin Croco until better practices in line with international norms can be put in place”
Jane Birkin letter to Hermes in 2015
Hermés Crocodile Farms in Australia
Australia exports more saltwater crocodile skins than any other country, accounting for 60% of global trade, with a substantial two-thirds of this production originating from the Northern Territory. There are now at least 21 facilities across northern Australia, primarily in the Northern Territory and Queensland, most of them owned by French luxury goods companies, Hermés and Louis Vuitton.
The establishment of a new crocodile farm by PRI Farming reflects the industry’s optimistic outlook for the future. Mick Burns, the head of the Crocodile Farmers Association of the Northern Territory (NT), is a director of PRI Farming, alongside three French nationals who are also directors of Hermès.
When the Hermés crocodile farm reaches full capacity, it will accommodate 50,000 crocodiles, resulting in a 50% increase in the overall number of farmed crocodiles in the NT. The development costs for this project have been reported at $40 million, and the construction phase is expected to generate employment for 170 individuals. Once the farm is fully operational, it will require a workforce of 30 employees.
In July 2023, the Australian federal government began an independent review of the Code of Practice on the Humane Treatment of Wild and Farmed Australian Crocodiles to ensure the Australian crocodile farming industry is managed to world class standards. The review is expected to take up to 12 months.
The code governs egg collection, catching wild crocodiles, breeding in captivity, husbandry practices, and how these apex predators are killed.
About a third of crocodiles bred in Hermés crocodile farms die of ‘natural causes’ before they mature.
Hunting of crocodiles was banned in 1971, the species was legally protected in the states or territories in which it occurs (Western Australia in 1969, Northern Territory in 1971, and Queensland in 1974.
Should animals die for fashion?
A 2021 report by the animal welfare organization, World Animal Protection, has shed light on the distressing conditions faced by crocodiles on these farms.
It was revealed that these animals are subject to regulations outlined in an outdated and insufficient Code of Practice, rooted in science that is decades old, despite the need for updated standards.
A poll conducted by World Animal Protection found that a majority of Australians were largely unaware of the harsh realities within this industry. A staggering 74% of respondents were oblivious to the methods used in farming and harvesting Australian crocodiles for their skins.
Additionally, a significant 88% of those polled were unaware of the ownership of most of the Northern Territory’s crocodile farms by French luxury companies like Hermès and Louis Vuitton (LVMH).
In response to the shocking revelations from a Hermès crocodile farm, World Animal Protection, in collaboration with animal welfare groups such as The Kindness Project, Collective Fashion Justice, Farm Transparency Project, Animal Liberation Queensland, and Animal Liberation, is spearheading a global digital protest targeting Hermès and their proposed new farm in Australia, which is slated to house up to 50,000 saltwater crocodiles.
This development comes at a time when the use of exotic animal skins is facing increased scrutiny. Prominent brands like Chanel, Victoria Beckham, Mulberry, Karl Lagerfeld, Vivienne Westwood, and Tommy Hilfiger have either committed to or are actively transitioning away from using exotic skins and wildlife materials in their products, instead shifting their focus towards humane alternatives.
World Animal Protection (WAP) has been actively lobbying G20 world leaders, including Australia, to put an end to the global wildlife trade. This initiative has garnered tremendous support, with over 1.1 million petition signatures demonstrating the widespread call for action.
Head of Campaigns at World Animal Protection, Ben Pearson said:
“The crocodile farming industry is grotesque and inherently cruel, where wild animals are denied a wild life or the freedom to exhibit their natural behaviours.
Crocodiles are wild animals, not handbags. They are sentient beings who don’t deserve to languish in plastic-lined pens for the profits of French fashion houses.
“An expansion of crocodile farming would send a message to the international community that the Australian Government believes the farming of wild animals and is acceptable. Instead, they should be working to phase-out and end the trade in wild animals.
“The wildlife trade is not only a source of animal suffering but threatens human health by creating conditions that could lead to future pandemics. We must accept that human wellbeing is intrinsically linked to the health of animals and the natural world.”
Further Reading
Hermès: Straight from the Horse’s Mouth, Hardcover, 2022 by Luc Charbin
The Little Book of Hermès: The Story of the Iconic Fashion House (Little Books of Fashion, 14) Hardcover, 2022, by Karen Homer
Grace Kelly: The Illustrated World of a Fashion Icon, Hardcover, 2023, by Megan Hess
Grace of Monaco: Princess in Dior, Hardcover, 2019 by Prince Albert II of Monaco (Foreword), Bernard Arnault
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