During this week in 1770 the HMB Endeavour travelled north from Smoky Cape near South West Rocks in NSW to the northern tip of Fraser Island in Queensland.
Cook gave English names to Cape Byron, Mount Warning, Point Danger (the boundary point on the coast between New South Wales and Queensland), Point Lookout, Morton’s Bay, Cape Morton and Glass Houses (The Glass House Mountains form a well-known sea mark on entering Moreton Bay, as the name is now written. Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, stands on the river of the same name, which falls into Moreton Bay), Double Island Point, and Sandy Cape.
HMB Endeavour under sail © 2019 Mark Anning photo. All Rights Reserved.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Monday, 14th May, 1770
Monday, 14th. At the P.M. it fell Calm, and continued so about an hour, when a breeze sprung up at North-East, with which we stood in shore until 6 o’Clock, when, being in 30 fathoms and 3 or 4 Miles from the land, we Tack’d, having the wind at North-North-West.
At this time Smoky Cape bore South 3/4 degrees West, distant about 5 Leagues, and the Northermost land in sight North 1/4 degrees East. At 8 we made a Trip in shore for an hour; after this the wind came off Shore, with which we stood along shore to the Northward, having from 30 to 21 fathoms, at the distance of 4 or 5 Miles from the Land. At 5 A.M. the Wind veer’d to North, and blow’d a fresh breeze, attended with Squalls and dark cloudy weather.
At 8 it began to Thunder and Rain, which lasted about an Hour, and then fell Calm, which gave us an opportunity to sound, and found 86 fathoms, being about 4 or 5 Leagues from the Land; after this we got the wind Southerly, a fresh breeze and fair weather, and we Steer’d North by West for the Northermost land we had in sight.
At noon we were about 4 Leagues from the land, and by observation in the Latitude of 30 degrees 22 minutes South, which was 9 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log. Longitude in 206 degrees 39 minutes West, and Course and distance made good since Yesterday Noon North 16 degrees East, 22 miles; some Tolerable high land near the Shore bore West.
As I have not mentioned the Aspect of the Country since we left Botany Bay, I shall now describe it as it hath at different times appear’d to us.
As we have advanced to the Northward the land hath increased in height, in so much that in this Latitude it may be called a hilly Country; but between this and Botany Bay it is diversified with an agreeable variety of Hills, Ridges, and Valleys, and large plains all Cloathed with wood, which to all appearance is the same as I have before mentioned, as we could discover no Visible alteration in the Soil.
Near the shore the land is in general low and Sandy, except the points which are rocky, and over many of them are pretty high hills, which at first rising out of the Water appear like a Island.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Monday, 14th May, 1770
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Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Tuesday, 15th May, 1770
Tuesday, 15th. Fresh Gales at South-West, West-South-West, and South-South-West. In the P.M. had some heavy Squalls, attended with rain and hail, which obliged us to close reef our Topsails.
Between 2 and 4 we had some small rocky Islands* (* The Solitary Islands.) between us and the land; the Southermost lies in the Latitude of 30 degrees 10 minutes, the Northermost in 29 degrees 58 minutes, and about 2 Leagues or more from the land; we sounded, and had 33 fathoms about 12 Miles without this last island.
At 8 we brought too until 10, at which time we made sail under our Topsails. Having the Advantage of the Moon we steer’d along shore North and North by East, keeping at the distance of about 3 Leagues from the land having from 30 to 25 fathoms. As soon as it was daylight we made all the sail we could, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale and fair weather.*
(* During the night the entrance of the Clarence River, now the outlet for the produce of a large and rich agricultural district, was passed, and in the morning that of the Richmond River, which serves a similar purpose.)
At 9, being about a League from the Land, we saw upon it people and Smoke in Several places. At noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 28 degrees 39 minutes South, and Longitude 206 degrees 27 minutes West; Course and distance saild since Yesterday at Noon North 6 degrees 45 minutes East, 104 Miles. A Tolerable high point of land bore North-West by West, distant 3 Miles; this point I named Cape Byron*
(* Captain John Byron was one of Cook’s predecessors in exploration in the Pacific, having sailed round the World in H.M.S. Dolphin, in company with the Tamar, in 1764 to 1766.) (Latitude 28 degrees 37 minutes 30 seconds South, Longitude 206 degrees 30 minutes West).
It may be known by a remarkable sharp peaked Mountain lying in land North-West by West from it. From this point the land Trends North 13 degrees West. Inland it is pretty high and hilly, but near the Shore it is low; to the Southward of the Point the land is low, and Tolerable level.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Tuesday, 15th May, 1770
HMB Endeavour under sail © 2019 Mark Anning photo. All Rights Reserved.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Wednesday, 16th May, 1770
[Off Point Danger, New South Wales.]
Wednesday, 16th. Winds Southerly, a fresh Gale, with which we steer’d North along shore until sunset, at which time we discover’d breakers ahead, and on our Larboard bow, being at this time in 20 fathoms, and about 5 miles from the land. Haul’d off East until 8, at which time we had run 8 Miles, and had increased our Depth of Water to 44 fathoms.
We then brought too with her head to the Eastward, and lay on this Tack until 10 o’Clock, when, having increased our Soundings to 78 fathoms, we wore and lay with her head in shore until 5 o’Clock a.m., when we made Sail.
At daylight we were surprized by finding ourselves farther to the Southward than we were in the evening, and yet it had blown strong all night Southerly.
We now saw the breakers again within us, which we passed at the distance of about 1 League; they lay in the Latitude of 28 degrees 8 minutes South, and stretch off East 2 Leagues from a point under which is a small Island; their situation may always be found by the peaked mountain before mentioned, which bears South-West by West from them, and on their account I have named it Mount Warning.
It lies 7 or 8 Leagues in land in the Latitude of 28 degrees 22 minutes South. The land is high and hilly about it, but it is Conspicuous enough to be distinguished from everything else.
The point off which these shoals lay I have named Point Danger;* (* Point Danger is the boundary point on the coast between New South Wales and Queensland.) to the Northward of it the land, which is low, Trends North-West by North; but we soon found that it did not keep that direction long before it turn’d again to the Northward.
At Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the land, and by observation in the Latitude of 27 degrees 46 minutes, which was 17 Miles to the Southward of the Log; Longitude 206 degrees 26 minutes West. Mount Warning bore South 20 degrees West, distant 14 Leagues; the Northermost land in sight bore North. Our Course and distance made good since yesterday North 1 degree 45 minutes West, 53 miles.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Wednesday, 16th May, 1770
HMB Endeavour under sail © 2019 Mark Anning photo. All Rights Reserved.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Thursday, 17th May, 1770
[Off Moreton Bay, Queensland.]
Thursday, 17th. Winds Southerly, mostly a fresh breeze, with which in the P.M. we steer’d along shore North 3/4 East, at the distance of about 2 Leagues off. Between 4 and 5 we discover’d breakers on our Larboard bow; our Depth of Water at this time was 37 fathoms.
At sunset the Northermost land in sight bore North by West, the breakers North-West by West, distant 4 Miles, and the Northermost land set at Noon, which form’d a Point, I named Point Lookout, bore West, distant 5 or 6 Miles (Latitude 27 degrees 6 minutes).* (* There is some mistake in this latitude. It should be 27 degrees 26 minutes.)
On the North side of this point the shore forms a wide open bay, which I have named Morton’s Bay,* (* James, Earl of Morton, was President of the Royal Society in 1764, and one of the Commissioners of Longitude.) in the Bottom of which the land is so low that I could but just see it from the Topmast head.
The breakers I have just mentioned lies about 3 or 4 Miles from Point Lookout; at this time we had a great Sea from the Southward, which broke prodigious high upon them. Stood on North-North-East until 8, when, being past the breakers, and having Deepned our water to 52 fathoms, we brought too until 12 o’Clock, then made sail to the North-North-East.
At 4 A.M. we sounded, and had 135 fathoms. At daylight I found that we had in the night got much farther to the Northward and from the Shore than I expected from the Course we steer’d, for we were at least 6 or 7 Leagues off, and therefore hauled in North-West by West, having the Advantage of a Fresh Gale at South-South-West. The Northermost land seen last night bore from us at this time South-South-West, distant 6 Leagues.
This land I named Cape Morton, it being the North point of the Bay of the same Name (Latitude 26 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude 206 degrees 28 minutes).
From Cape Morton the Land Trends away West, further than we could see, for there is a small space where we could see no land; some on board where of opinion that there is a River there because the Sea looked paler than usual. Upon sounding we found 34 fathoms fine white sandy bottom, which alone is Sufficient change, the apparent Colour of Sea Water, without the Assistance of Rivers.
The land need only to be low here, as it is in a Thousand other places upon the Coast, to have made it impossible for us to have seen it at the distance we were off. Be this as it may, it was a point that could not be clear’d up as we had the wind; but should any one be desirous of doing it that may come after me, this place may always be found by 3 Hills which lay to the Northward of it in the Latitude of 26 degrees 53 minutes South.
These hills lay but a little way inland, and not far from Each other; they are very remarkable on account of their Singular form of Elivation, which very much resembles Glass Houses,* (* The Glass houses form a well-known sea mark on entering Moreton Bay, as the name is now written. Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, stands on the river of the same name, which falls into Moreton Bay.) which occasioned my giving them that Name.
The Northermost of the 3 is the highest and largest. There are likewise several other peaked hills inland to the Northward of these, but they are not near so remarkable.
At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 26 degrees 28 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of the Log; a Circumstance that hath not hapned since we have been upon the Coast before. Our Course and distance run since Yesterday noon was North by West 80 Miles, which brought us into the Longitude of 206 degrees 46 minutes.
At this time we were about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land, and in 24 fathoms Water; a low bluff point, which was the Southern point of an open Sandy bay,* (* Laguna Bay. The point is called Low Bluff.) bore North 52 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues, and the Northermost point of land in sight bore North 1/4 East. Several Smokes seen to-day, and some pretty far inland.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Thursday, 17th May, 1770
HMB Endeavour under sail © 2019 Mark Anning photo. All Rights Reserved.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Friday, 18th May, 1770
Friday, 18th. In steering along shore at the distance of 2 Leagues off our Soundings was from 24 to 32 fathoms Sandy bottom. At 6 P.M. the North point set at Noon bore North 1/4 West; distant 4 Leagues; at 10 it bore North-West by West 1/2 West, and as we had seen no land to the Northward of it we brought too, not knowing which way to steer, having at this time but little wind, and continued so for the most part of the night.
At 2 P.M. we made sail with the wind at South-West, and at daylight saw the land extending as far as North 3/4 East. The point set last night bore South-West by West, distant 3 or 4 Leagues; I have named it Double Island Point, on account of its figure (Latitude 25 degrees 58 minutes South, Longitude 206 degrees 48 minutes West).
The land within this point is of a moderate and pretty equal height, but the point itself is of such an unequal Height that it looks like 2 Small Islands laying under the land; it likewise may be known by the white Clifts on the North side of it.
Here the land trends to the North-West, and forms a large open bay,* (* Wide Bay.) in the bottom of which the land appear’d to be very low, in so much that we could but just see it from the Deck. In crossing the mouth of this bay our Depth of Water was from 30 to 32 fathoms, a white sandy bottom.
At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the Land, and in the Latitude of 25 degrees 34 minutes South, Longitude 206 degrees 45 minutes West; Double Island Point bore South 3/4 West, and the Northermost land in sight North 3/4 East.
The land hereabouts, which is of a moderate height, appears more barren than any we have yet seen on this Coast, and the Soil more sandy, there being several large places where nothing else is to be seen; in other places the woods look to be low and Shrubby, nor did we see many signs of inhabitants.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Friday, 18th May, 1770
HMB Endeavour under sail © 2019 Mark Anning photo. All Rights Reserved.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Saturday, 19th May, 1770
Saturday, 19th. In the P.M. had Variable light Airs, and Calms; in the night had a light breeze from the land, which in the A.M. veer’d to South-West and South-South-West. In the evening found the Variation to be 8 degrees 36 minutes East, and in the Morning 8 degrees 20 minutes; as we had but little wind we keept to the Northward all night, having from 23 to 27 fathoms fine sandy bottom, at the Distance of 2 or 3 Leagues from the Land.
At Noon we were about 4 Miles from it, and by observation in the Latitude of 25 degrees 4 minutes, and in this situation had but 13 fathoms; the Northermost land in Sight bore North 21 degrees West, distant 8 Miles; our Course and distance saild since yesterday at Noon was North 13 degrees 15 minutes East, 31 Miles.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Saturday, 19th May, 1770
HMB Endeavour under sail © 2019 Mark Anning photo. All Rights Reserved.
[Off Sandy Cape, Queensland.]
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Sunday, 20th May, 1770
Sunday, 20th. Winds Southerly, Gentle breezes. At 10 p.m. we passed, at the distance of 4 Miles, having 17 fathoms, a black bluff head or point of land, on which a number of the Natives were Assembled, which occasioned my naming it Indian Head; Latitude 25 degrees 0 minutes North by West, 4 Miles from this head, is another much like it.
From this last the land Trends a little more to the Westward, and is low and Sandy next the Sea, for what may be behind it I know not; if land, it must be all low, for we could see no part of it from the Mast head.
We saw people in other places besides the one I have mentioned; some Smokes in the day and fires in the Night.
Having but little wind all Night, we keept on to the Northward, having from 17 to 34 fathoms, from 4 Miles to 4 Leagues from the Land, the Northermost part of which bore from us at daylight West-South-West, and seem’d to End in a point, from which we discover’d a Reef stretching out to the Northward as far as we could see, being, at this time, in 18 fathoms; for we had, before it was light, hauld our Wind to the Westward, and this course we continued until we had plainly discover’d breakers a long way upon our Lee Bow, which seem’d to Stretch quite home to the land.
We then Edged away North-West and North-North-West, along the East side of the Shoal, from 2 to 1 Miles off, having regular, even Soundings, from 13 to 7 fathoms; fine sandy bottom. At Noon we were, by Observation, in the Latitude of 24 degrees 26 minutes South, which was 13 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log.
The extream point of the Shoal we judged to bear about North-West of us; and the point of land above-mentioned bore South 3/4 West, distant 20 Miles. This point I have named Sandy Cape,* on account of 2 very large white Patches of Sand upon it.
(* Sandy Cape is the northern point of Great Sandy Island, now called Fraser Island. A long narrow channel separates the latter from the mainland, and opens at its northern end into Harvey Bay, a great sheet of water 40 miles across. This channel is now much used by the coasting trade, as it avoids the long detour round Breaksea Spit, a most dangerous shoal.)
It is of a height Sufficient to be seen 12 Leagues in Clear weather (Latitude 24 degrees 46 minutes, Longitude 206 degrees 51 minutes West); from it the Land trends away West-South-West and South-West as far as we could see.
Lt. James Cook journal, HMB Endeavour: Sunday, 20th May, 1770
See also: List of Persons Who Left England in HMB Endeavour, 26th August, 1768
1. Captain Cook’s ship Endeavour confirmed found in Newport Harbour, USA
2. Secret Orders to Captain James Cook on H.M. Bark ENDEAVOUR
3. Captain Cook’s Journal 1-18 Apr.1770: Passage from New Zealand to New Holland
4. James Cook journal: 20th – 28th April, 1770 on HMB Endeavour
5. James Cook journal: 29 April – 6 May, 1770 in Botany Bay – Kamay
6. James Cook journal aboard HMB Endeavour: 7 – 14 May, 1770
