In a unique blend of history, art, and environmental sustainability, the ancient city of Pompeii has inspired a contemporary project that brings the vibrant colors of its frescoes back to life. Master dyer Claudio Cutuli, from the association Intrecci Creativi, has partnered with the Archaeological Park of Pompeii to create sustainable scarves that not only honor ancient dyeing techniques but also contribute to preserving the cultural heritage of Pompeii.
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The Ancient Art of Natural Dyeing: A Journey Back to Pompeii
Breathing Life into History
The project centers around the frescoes found in the House of the Vettii, a site renowned for its exquisite art that has survived the test of time.
These frescoes, with their vivid depictions of mythological figures and daily life, have been meticulously recreated on scarves made from sustainable fabrics.
The fabric, woven from nettle yarn, is dyed using natural dyes extracted from plants—many of which are being cultivated in Pompeii’s ancient nursery.
Cutuli, whose family has a long history in the art of dyeing and weaving, has created three distinct scarf designs.
Each design draws directly from the Pompeian frescoes, with the red background scarves featuring scenes from the room with the frieze of the “Cupids at Work.”
These scenes show cupids washing and carding fabrics, bringing a direct connection to the fullonicae (ancient laundries) of Pompeii where natural and eco-friendly dyeing processes were the norm.
A Sustainable Approach to Ancient Craft
The process used to create these scarves mirrors the ancient techniques employed by the Romans. Dyer’s madder (Rubbia tinctorum) is used to achieve the rich reds and pinks, elderberry provides the black and grey tones, and walnut husk is utilized for brown and natural hues. These methods not only revive the historical craft of natural dyeing but also align perfectly with modern principles of environmental sustainability.
Claudio Cutuli’s work emphasizes the essential link between respecting the environment and the craft of weaving. In an industry often criticized for its environmental impact, this initiative showcases how traditional practices can lead the way in promoting sustainable production methods.
A Partnership for Preservation
This project is part of a broader initiative by the Archaeological Park of Pompeii, known as Azienda agricola Pompei. The initiative focuses on redeveloping and enhancing green spaces within the park through activities such as olive-growing, wine-making, and horticulture. By integrating natural dyeing practices into this project, Pompeii is not only preserving its ancient heritage but also promoting biodiversity and environmental education.
Gabriel Zuchtriegel, Director of the Archaeological Park of Pompeii, highlights the significance of this partnership, stating that “archaeology in the twenty-first century is also concerned with research into sustainability in terms of the environment, society, and management.”
The use of dyeing plants in Pompeii highlights this commitment and includes plans to expand the project to include workshops and educational spaces that tell the story of dyeing from ancient fulleries to the present day.
A Contribution to Cultural Heritage
The scarves produced through this collaboration are more than just fashion statements—they are a bridge between past and present, crafted with care and respect for both the environment and the rich history of Pompeii. As a part of this initiative, 50% of the proceeds from the sale of these scarves will be dedicated to the restoration of structures within the Archaeological Park of Pompeii, ensuring that this ancient city continues to inspire future generations.
For nearly 200 years, the Cutuli family has been a guardian of the art of natural dyeing. Through this project, they have not only revived an ancient craft but also demonstrated its relevance in today’s world.
As Claudio Cutuli himself notes, “Pompeii offers us an additional opportunity to safeguard the future of the planet and to continue with the intention of leaving to posterity a passion for knowledge of our surroundings, for what we once were and what we wish the future to look like.”
In embracing the past, this project paves the way for a more sustainable future, where the art of natural dyeing is not just a relic of history but a vibrant, living practice.
Further reading from Amazon
Journeys in Natural Dyeing: Techniques for Creating Color at Home Hardcover, 2020 by Kristine Vejar, Adrienne Rodriguez
Natural Dyeing *OSI*: Learn How to Create Color and Dye Textiles Naturally Paperback, 2022 by Kathyn Davey
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