A local’s look at the towns that reveals the Barrington Coast as Australia’s best-kept secret
The Barrington Coast isn’t just a place on the map; it’s a living, breathing mosaic of nature’s excess and restraint. Drive a couple of hours north of Sydney, and you’ll find yourself peeling back layers of eucalyptus forest and coastal towns untouched by the churn of global tourism. This isn’t Byron, and thank the gods for that.
Here, the surf’s still wild enough to remind you who’s boss, and the food? Let’s just say the Barrington Coast does ‘farm-to-table’ with a refreshing authenticity. This isn’t the kind of carefully curated, high-gloss version you might find in the city—it’s honest, seasonal, and as local as it gets.
When you sit down to eat here, you’re tasting the land itself: fish straight from the coast, veggies from nearby farms, and dishes that let the ingredients speak for themselves.
You’ll get fish that was likely caught just an hour ago, paired with chips that know their way around salt and grease. This is a coast where they cook like they mean it, with an attitude that says, “Eat and go enjoy the beach.” Because here, nature’s the main event.
It’s food rooted in community, where farmers and fishers aren’t just suppliers; they’re part of the story. And as you savor each bite, you feel a deep connection to the landscape that made it all possible.
Nabiac, Forster-Tuncurry, Gloucester, Taree, Wingham, and Elands are towns that feel like they’re waiting for you to find them, even if they’re in no rush to be discovered. These places are unapologetically themselves, with their quirks, local characters, and that laid-back, coastal charm.
Base Camp: Artisans on the Hill
Staying at Artisans on the Hill in Mondrook is like stepping into a creative retreat where every corner tells a story.
This artisan’s gallery and guesthouse is a celebration of craftsmanship, offering more than just a place to rest.
You’ll find yourself surrounded by intricate woodworks and vibrant glass art, all created by selected artists whose passion for their craft is palpable.
The rooms are cozy and welcoming, decorated with unique pieces that reflect the rustic, artistic vibe of the space. Guests can take part in hands-on workshops, learning techniques from the resident artisans and creating pieces of their own to take home.
Tucked into the quiet of the countryside along the Tinonee-Wingham Road at Mondrook, it’s a place to reconnect with creativity, unwind, and be inspired by the beauty of handmade art. You can book via AirBnB but insiders know to book direct on their website: Artisans on the Hill
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Pit Stop Nabiac
Nabiac is the perfect pit stop for travelers heading north from Sydney. With a breezy three-hour drive up the Pacific Highway from the Big Smoke, it is a perfect pit stop to stretch the legs and fill the car. Nestled just off the highway, unlike other towns which can be a 10 kilometre detour, it’s an easy spot to pull in for a fuel top-up and a lunch that goes beyond the usual roadhouse fare.
Greenhouse Cafe is a local gem, serving up delicious vegetarian and vegan meals made with love and a lot of local produce that are hearty and fresh, with a warm, garden-like ambiance that makes you want to linger. Greenhouse Cafe is on Facebook.
Take the time you save from staying close to the highway to explore some of Nabiac’s unique offerings.
Circle of Friends showcases an eclectic mix of artisan goods, from handmade crafts to unique gifts, perfect for picking up something special for someone special in your circle of friends.
And for a touch of nostalgia, The National Motorcycle Museum is a must, housing over 800 vintage bikes and memorabilia that tell the story of Australia’s motorcycling heritage. Nabiac may be small, but it’s packed with charm and worth every minute of your detour.
A bit of local knowledge: watch your speed driving along the Pacific Highway just south of Nabiac and also at Coopernook … the highway patrol have their favourite nooks to tuck away and keep an eye out for speedsters.
Gloucester and Barrington Tops
Take the inland detour to the Barrington Tops, and you’re looking at an old soul of a rainforest—lush, dripping, silent. The cold bite in the air, the hum of unseen life—it’s like stepping into a cathedral where the gods still show up.
The Tops’ trails wind through ancient trees, and every now and then, if you’re quiet, you’ll hear the whirring wings of lyrebirds mimicking sounds they’ve collected over decades.
It’s eerie and beautiful, like an old ghost story you want to hear one more time. You’ll need snow chains in winter, so monitor the weather.
And then there’s Gloucester. A town that doesn’t try to impress. It’s all pubs and locals, a butcher shop that’s been there longer than anyone remembers, and a bakery with pastries worth a detour. You’ll see farmers with mud-caked boots sharing beers with bikers and backpackers who look slightly stunned to find a town so unapologetically itself.
A must see is Aussie Ark where efforts are being made to protect endangered Quolls, Tasmanian Devils and more!
Taree: The Heart of the Manning Valley
Taree might be the largest town in the area, but it’s still a place where people nod and say hello as you pass by. You won’t find flashy dining here, but you will find local cafes and pubs that do food right.
Raw Sugar Cafe is the go-to for lunch—a place where the menu is all-day breakfast and inventive sandwiches, with walls plastered in art from local painters and photographers.
Victoria Street has a great selection of eateries – no Michelin stars but they are all surprisingly good. TwoHans for Japanese, Café Giardino (formerly The Sicilian) for Italian, and the Bohemian Cafe for, well, bohemian, are all good. Deep Sea Delights around the corner in Pulteney St is where the locals go for fish & chips to be eaten picnic-style just down by the river.
There’s a sense of pride here; the people in Taree know they’re living in a special corner of the world. Locals know that there is no need to travel the world. If you stay here long enough, the world will come to you.
The town has an art scene that’s surprising for its size. The Manning Regional Art Gallery is small but punches above its weight, often featuring local artists alongside exhibitions that travel through regional galleries. There’s a sense of pride in the Barrington Coast art scene; it’s grassroots, DIY, and deeply tied to the local landscape.
In the evening, locals hit Manning River Hotel. It’s nothing fancy—just a good, old-fashioned pub where the food is hearty, the beers are cold, and if you sit at the bar long enough, you’ll find yourself talking to someone who’ll tell you about the town’s history and the river that defines it.
Forster-Tuncurry: Twin Towns with a Taste for the Sea
Forster and Tuncurry are where the ocean meets the estuary, creating a mecca for fishing, boating, and, of course, fresh seafood.
These twin towns are laid-back coastal gems with a thriving summer crowd, but if you come in the shoulder seasons, you’ll get the place to yourself.
Beach Bums Cafe at Forster’s Main Beach has the kind of view that’ll make you want to stay for hours; it’s perfect for a lazy brunch.
They serve coffee that holds its own against city brews and burgers that satisfy after a morning on the waves or whale watching just off the coast.
For dinner, head to Tartt Cafe & Bar, also in Forster. It’s more than just a cafe; it’s a bit of a community hangout, known for its wood-fired pizzas and seafood specials that take full advantage of the area’s daily catch. The food is modern, but it’s not trying too hard—just quality ingredients from the local waters and farms.
Wingham: A Step Back in Time
Wingham is a small town with a big personality. Known for its heritage buildings and quirky shops, it feels like stepping into a slice of old Australia.
In the heart of town, the Australian Hotel, known locally as Wingham Top Pub, serves up one of the best lunches you’ll find in the area.
The staff are friendly, the food delicious and varied, and the live music goes perfectly well with the banter and beers over fine pub fare.
Travel back in time wandering and wondering through the Wingham Museum just across the street from Top Pub. Wingham’s history involves the early days of convict labour clearing the land for beef and timber logging.
Check out the story of one of the early settlers, Isabella Mary Kelly, who fell victim to gossip, malice, forgery and perjury, and was jailed for a crime she did not commit. Isabella, after whom the main street is named, was run out of town for no other reason than being a fiesty, independent business woman working her property along the Manning River. Not much has changed in Wingham since the early days.
The Wingham Brush Nature Reserve and it’s inhabitants of grey-headed flying-foxes which fill the sky at dusk is worth a wander and the town is one of the rare places that welcomes overnight vans – free!
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Elands: Where the Wild Things Are
Elands feels like it’s on the edge of the world, surrounded by rainforest, winding roads, and the hypnotic rush of Ellenborough Falls, one of the longest single-drop waterfalls in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s a place for artists, nature-lovers, and anyone who feels the need to step off the grid.
The town has an undeniable eccentricity—you’ll meet people here who have retreated from the noise of the modern world and made a quiet life among the trees.
There’s not much in the way of traditional cafes or restaurants, but the Ellenborough Falls Kiosk is so good even the locals eat there. The food is home-cooked and delicious, the hand-pressed coffee is strong, and the people behind the counter are the kind who’ll take the time to tell you about the waterfall and the best walking trails nearby.
You might even find a local artist selling their wares in a corner, adding to the store’s eclectic charm. The kiosk is open Friday, Saturday & Sunday between 10am and 4pm and every day during school holidays
Arts and Community Spirit
The Barrington Coast is an arts scene hidden in plain sight. Artists in this region have a deep connection to the land; their works aren’t just paintings but reflections of the rolling hills, rivers, and coastlines they see every day.
In Taree and Forster, you’ll find small galleries and even a few pop-up exhibitions from time to time, where painters, sculptors, and photographers showcase their love for the landscape. The local markets, such as the Wingham Farmers Market, often have artisans selling handmade ceramics, woven crafts, and paintings that capture the wild beauty of the region.
Live Music Scene
In addition to the standout cafes mentioned, keep an eye out for places like Flow Bar in Old Bar, Harrington Hotel and the Australian Hotel (Top Pub) in Wingham where they host live music.
If you’re looking for a laid-back evening with a side of live music, Flow Bar in Old Bar is where you want to be. Friday and Saturday nights kick off with dinner and a show from 6:30 pm, bringing together good food, local talent, and a crowd that knows how to unwind.
Sundays take it easy with the Sunday Session, where lunch meets live music from 12:30 pm—perfect for those sun-kissed afternoons when a cold drink and good tunes are all you need.
The a-la-carte menu serves up breakfast, tapas, and wood-fired pizza, so there’s always something to sink your teeth into while the music plays on. The menu is as relaxed as the vibe—think burgers, tacos, and craft beer.
And if you’re too blissed out to leave, book a night at the Boogie Woogie Beach House, an 8-room concept hotel just steps away. This award-winning stay is all about style and personality, a place that makes you feel like a local with an edge. Find Flow Bar at 31 David Street, Old Bar, NSW, and make sure to book ahead—the seats go fast, and you won’t want to miss out. For more info, head to flowbar.com.au or catch them on Instagram at @flowbar_oldbar.
Barrington Coast’s charm
The Barrington Coast’s charm isn’t about sleek restaurants or award-winning menus. It’s about honest food served by honest people, an arts scene that’s small but deeply authentic, and the kind of towns where you can feel the heartbeat of a place that doesn’t need to reinvent itself for anyone. It’s for travelers who come for the quiet, the nature, and the stories—and who, like the Barrington Coast itself, don’t need to try too hard.
As for the rivers that lace the Barrington Coast, they’re the real treasure. The mighty Manning, the Gloucester, the Karuah—these rivers carry the region’s stories in their water. Rent a kayak, get lost for an afternoon. There’s an alchemy in the quiet rush of these waterways, a kind of magic that doesn’t need to explain itself.
The Barrington Coast is for those who are done with glossy travel brochures, for people who like a bit of mud on their boots, salt on their skin, and a sense of having stumbled on something raw and unpolished. It’s a place that doesn’t care if you’re impressed, and that’s the real beauty of it.
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